Animal Stories - People Talking About Reptiles - Amphibians



Select Pet Atlas	Select A Family	Species / Breed

Latest Animal Stories on Reptiles - Amphibians (1989)

Kristie Mansfield - 2007-06-20
I like your site and find valuable information here, but would like to update some information concerning the green iguana that could be harmful.
Iguanas are 100% foliavores throughout their whole lives. The only protien that they ever eat is an occasional insect ingested by mistake.
Contrary to out-dated information, juvenile diets are not different than the adult diet.

Iguanas require a specialized diet when kept in captivity.
The most common illness of the captive iguana is Metabolic Bone Disease (MDB) caused by an improper diet and/or lack of UVB and Vitamin D3. Calcium cannot be metabolized without it.

The food that you give your iguana, on average, should contain about twice as much calcium as phosphorus.
This ratio is very important for bone growth and maintenance, as well as for muscle contraction and many other important bodily functions. Metabolic bone disease, as well as many other health problems can be caused simply by ignoring this ratio for a short length of time.

Another danger is feeding your iguana foods that are high in oxalic acid (such as spinach, beets, beet greens, banannas, celery stalk or swiss chard). Oxalic acid binds with the calcium in these vegetables, rendering it unusable. Rhubard is deadly.

Most captive iguanas die in their first year because of calcium deficiencies. Please educate yourselves extensively before getting an iguana, and please adopt unwanted pets, rather than getting a juvenile.

Click For Replies (1)

anne dooley - 2013-01-21
I was told that you should give young igunas wax worms for it helps them fatten up when they are not feeling unwell.

chase jonsgaard - 2011-03-07
And how much, what are the price ranges of the snake?

Click For Replies (1)

john - 2012-10-31
$20 to $40 for a good one, usually on the high end.

Pat - 2013-05-25
I'm interested in making a cactus vivarium and I'd like a desert critter to add as a final touch. Is a Desert Hairy Scorpion a good candidate? I like that they're hardy and don't require much care, but I'm worried that they may be injured on the cactus or rearrange the cage as the Emperors are said to do. Can any one shed some light on these or other issues for me? Thanks.

Click For Replies (1)

Jeremy Roche - 2013-05-27
You should be just fine. They don't rearrange as much as the Emperors do.

Chris Townsend - 2013-05-23
have a metalic pink toe maybe a her have had for little over a month 1st week gave her 6 crickets as store recommended she ate them ... 2nd week gave her 6 more she ate 2 the rest died on there own.. waited an extra week 6 more hasnt touched them ... has me worried but shop told me they can go long times withotu eating ... noticed last 2 days she has been at the bottom not climbing as usual, so i paid attention to what she has been doing she tries to climb but is sliding down the glass like she is not sticking. I have read others ask this question is it normal? I have seen from its normal to molting around the corner. I guess im just worried is my 1st and have wanted one for years and well wife finally gave in, the no eating and now not being able to climb has me sorta freaking.

Click For Replies (5)

Chris Townsend - 2013-05-24
worried it may be dieing but is much younger than a year old no hooks on legs etc. but i guess all i can do is wait see what happens
Cheryl Luhrs - 2013-05-24
From the comment you made regarding your A. avic's age and the fact that there aren't any hooks on the 2 front legs, I would say you're on the right track in eliminating the 'dying male' comment. I would be more inclined to look into the possibility of mites, small ants, mold etc. being the problem and once those are eliminated, consider that it could be going into a pre-molt. Also, increase the humidity-tree spiders mainly come from the tropics. They require high humidity and like the temp. to be in the mid. to high 70's. Oh, and should you lose your lil guy/gal-DON'T GIVE UP or think it's your fault. Avics do have a higher than normal mortality rate. Why? I don't know. I have 28 spideys now, most I raised from tiny 1/2' slings. Amazing watching them grow. Check out Petcenter USA, Net-bugs, and Jamiestarantulas. All 3 online vendors really care about what they're doing and all 3 are into captive breeding. I started out with 4 lil slings and have been adding a few each month. Oh and welcome to the Hobby!
Clarice Brough - 2013-05-25
Cheryl, you have some great info! (Especially since we now know this little fellow isn't close to being a year old) I really learned a lot from your post on all sorts of things about these guys... awesome! One of the best tips is about the common practice to use sponge in their drinking water, but the fact that a sponge can become a bacteria haven is really a good piece of info. Thanks so much for sharing all your expertise:)
Clarice Brough - 2013-05-24
With it not climbing the glass and not eating, I'm thinking you may have a male that's nearing the end of its life. They are more frail looking than the females and only live for about a year.
Cheryl Luhrs - 2013-05-24
Before you give up on your A. avic., consider a few other things such as the humidity ad temp. I have several different sp. of Avicularia Tantulas and in observing them, I've found that they require high humidity. I make sure my substrate is moist and I also mist the inside of their cage, making sure I don't spray the lil guy. Also, check for mites or other observable parasites. I had a problem with tiny sugar ants invading my cages and, believe me, the pink toe showed it's stress by huddling in the bottom of the cage. I totally cleaned the inside of their cage, replaced substrate etc. Then wiped down the area around them with vinegar. So far, no more ants.

Another option could be that it' gone into pre-molt. They become real quiet and cease to eat during this time. In a week or two, depending on the sp. (sometimes longer) they will turn over onto their back and begin to molt. Don't bother the T during this process or you could kill it. They are very fragile during this process and won't eat afterwards until their exo-skeleton has hardened back up.

I would also note that 6 crickets is a bit too much. Over feeding is thought to shorten their lives. One or two crickets are plenty. Oh and one last thing. Use a small plastic lid or purchase one, for their water and don't use any sponge in the water. It can breed germs big time.

To determine the sex of your pink toe, look for tiny hooks on the front legs of your T. The male uses these to pin back the females fangs during mating. Also, are the pedipelps, (smaller legs on each side of their mouth area) the same thickness through out or do they look to be fatter, more bulb like on the ends. Also, a male will have much longer, more spinkly legs than a female and it's over all body structure will appear thinner more gaunt than a females. You can also find pictures of what the sex organs look like. This will also determine the sex.

Personally, I'd consider many other options before thinking it's about to die for what ever reason and giving up on it. Maybe it's just too cold, or gettig ready to do a molt, or doesn't like something in the cage aka type of substrate, mold, mites etc. In the mean time, go online and check out some of the great info. sites available and also the websites that sell T's. Take it from one hooked hobbiest. Baby T's are fun to raise and there's so many sp. to choose from. My 3 favorite vendors are Net-Bugs in the N.E., Jamies T's and Petcenter USA both in Cal.

Oh and should you lose this spider for what ever reason-don't give up having a T as a pet. Good luck to you!!!

Katie Whittington - 2010-08-27
I've recently acquired a redfoot.. and many websites say to feed him different things. any suggestions as some say meat - some say greens - some say banana etc, and some say these are bad for him?

x

Click For Replies (5)

Editor's Note - 2010-08-27
Red footed tortoises are omnivorous and should be fed salads like every other day and meat once or twice a week. Guidelines are given here Red-footed Tortoise As far as bananas and other exotic foods; I don't know what the answer is, if you just stick with what is known to be good for them you'll have a healthy pet!
Kellee - 2010-12-30
I have had a redfoot for 28 years. He is about 16 inches in the shell - head to tail. Redfoots need 80 % greens - they love dandelion greens, most hate spinach and love collard greens - dark greens are best like herb mix you get in the organic section of your local grocerer. If you pick dandelions out of your yard - make sure no chemicals have been used. 10 percent veggies - carrots- cut up small, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, squash, tomatoes, and mushrooms - mine loves mushrooms. and 10 percent fruit - red fruit is the best - strawberries, raspberries, black berries, apples (again cut small) watermelon, other melon. Bananas are good - but fattening - save for a once in awhile treat. NO onion, peppers, cucumbers, celery - to gassy and hard to digest. Give your redfoot some carion - catfood or dog food or better yet - tortiose food from the local reputable pet store. Lastly, my tortoise love Nasturiums flowers or Hibiscus flowers in the summer.
amanda - 2011-01-01
Minimal banana and spinach, it causes constipation. As far as meat goes, I feed mine meal worms just about twice a month and they come in a can at the pet store and keep them in the fridge. Just sprinkle a few on his food. But grapes, carrots, kale, dandilion, a little avacado, apples, kiwi, I also feed mixed mescilan greens. Really anything in small amounts and observe how he reacts to it, such as if it blocks it up or gives the runs. I hope that helps.
Jim Moss - 2011-06-22
A red-foot needs lots of greens but can have up to 20% of his diet in friuts. No spinach but collards, beet tops are great. 5% of the diet needs to be protein. Dried cat or dog food soaked before feeding.
red-footed momma - 2013-05-24
We have had red-footed tortoises in our front (enclosed) yard for more than 30 years. Living in the Caribbean, these tortoises were here before Columbus.... We feed them entirely from our (vegetarian) food scraps, and water them with a chicken waterer. When we had our first batches of babies, we kept the tiny ones in a dry aquarium, and they were partial to lettuce, mushrooms and hibiscus. Now they wander around through the 60'X 20' yard and hide under the bushes in the heat of mid-day. They love the food scraps and particularly adore anything red: hibiscus, cherries, red pepper, etc. They eat bugs and are very happy when our mango tree goes to fruit. They are very lovely companions. One has been with us for nearly 29 years!

Tiago - 2013-05-12
I found a spiny soft shelled turtle in amazon Brazil.

xy - 2013-05-05
i want to learned more about reptiles and insects

mom - 2013-05-03
I found a red eared today I believe she is a female,she was crossinga busy street and in fear of her getting run over I took her home. She's about the size of a desertplate at at first seemed nervous and would snap her mouth at my fingers. I would love to give her the proper care,, her shell is peeling top and bottom is this normal? My kids are excited with her, is to much human contact bad for her? Is she a water turtle?or does she just need access to a little pond ? How do I know if she needs water or if It's enough water for her? If anyone can answer my questions ASAP I would gladly appreciate it :) Thank You

Click For Replies (1)

Clarice Brough - 2013-05-03
The information above will give you good guidelines for providing the right environment for your turtle. The peeling on the shell may just simply be exposure to a too dry an environment, so be sure to give it an area with water to re-hydrate. It is probably snapping because it is has lived in the wild, and is not familiar with being handled by humans so is probably defensive. Providing it with the right home and food in captivity, along with some time to become comfortable is probably the best antidote for the concerns you're having. Good luck:)

Anonymous - 2008-10-05
Hi Doug,

I'm wondering where I can get the Vit. E for my tortoise?

-Thanks!

" If you want to really perk up your Tortoise, apply vitaman E on the entire Tortoise and rub in with your fingers. This keeps their shells beautiful and healthy. It also relieves any discomforts they are having from shedding of their skin. Doug Wolkow, Highlands Ranch, CO." - Doug Wolkow

Click For Replies (3)

Patty - 2010-06-25
Really don't rub any oil or waxy material onto your tortoise's shell! They need to have a clean surface to exchange heat with their environment. Do not paint them with polish/paint. Do not rub oils on them. Do not apply any oils, period. Vitamin E, do not use either. What do I need to do to get this through to you people?
Pam Lane - 2013-03-03
Spend time researching please!
Dr. Ray - 2013-05-03
Vitamin E is really good for tortoise shells....you don't use it all the time but it does not hurt tortoise heating issues. You do not paint tortoises either! Vitamin e and paint are two different things. Whoever said put vitamin e on shell is 100 percent correct..

Illana Hanekom - 2013-04-18
Hi. I need some information on blue headed agamas please. I do not see any in depth information on this site on what they eat or how to take care of them. Our cat caught a baby bloukop koggelmander (blue headed agama) on Sunday 14 April. I rushed immediately to save it. A very small piece of the tail was bitten off by the cat, but otherwise the little one seems fine. Eating crickets, bowel movements etc. My husband and I want to keep it, but we have never had a lizard before, so we need some advice please. I started Googling immediately on the subject, but I have not been able to find specific info (like you have here on the Beardies) so far. Please help.

Click For Replies (2)

Clarice Brough - 2013-04-23
It sounds like your doing a good job so far. You may also want to gut load the insects prior to feeding, so you can provide adequate vitamins to the lizards diet. Here's a basic overview of their environment needs. They are a semi arboreal lizard, so will need a cage that's tall and has plenty of open area on the bottom, and with about 65% humidity. For one lizard, a terrarium about 36x18x24 is needed. Substrates can be a combination of soils, leaf litter, or mulch. It will need lots of branches for climbing and to create hiding places. As with most lizards, it will also need a full spectrum bulb to provide the necessary UV light spectrum. There should also be a warn end and a cool end to the terrarium so it can regulate its body temperature. Ideally create a thermal gradient, ranging from about 100F on the warm end, down to the high 70's to the low 80's on the cool side. A piece of cork bark or a rock under a bright bulb will provide the heat on the warm end for it to bask. Good luck with your new friend:)
Illana Hanekom - 2013-05-03
Thank you so much! What is 'gut feed'?

About Animal-World

Animal-World offers animal pictures, videos, and animal information on all different types of pets and animals. Included are animals that are commonly kept as pets, exotic pets and wild animals. Check us out for information, education, and fun. We strive to aid in responsible pet ownership and an understanding of the importance of preserving and honoring our world and its inhabitants. Animal-World members and contributors are from all over the world. You too are invited to be an active participant in this community. Post your own personal pet stories, contribute pictures of your pets, and join the forums for pet and animal discussions.

Visit Animal-World

Animal Stories - People Talking About Reptiles - Amphibians

About Animal-World