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I have Gold fish, One of them has white mushey stuff coming out of it just behind it's gills on it's body. The other fish are fine but, this one is more stand offish?
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Olivia B -
OMG that is a really rare disease.
I saw it on a website when I was looking up swim bladder. Isolate the fish straight away it might die and it's very contagious too be careful I remember reading something about a rare disease but the only thing I can remember is the symptom mushy stuff coming out of the gills.
My fish has only one swollen eye and if he catches it on something he will dive away as though it hurts, I'm not sure what it is but the rest of him seems fine? I do have a picture!
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Olivia B -
Your fish has pop eye here's some info:
Pop-eye in itself is not a disease but is more a symptom of an underlying infection. The eye bulges out in this manner because of fluid build up, either behind the eye or in the eye itself. The first signs you will notice is that one or even both eyes are starting to bulge. Slowly with time it can bulge to such an extent that the fish will look really shocking with the bulge.
The bulging eye may have a thin layer of 'skin' around it, this is a tough tissue that covers the eye keeping it in the socket and as the eye bulges it stretches the 'skin' with it. The fish may also get less active and show no interest in food. Fungus infections can show up afterwards.
If this disease is not detected soon after it is caught the fish can lose one or both of its eyes and its eye sight. Any impact the eye might be subjected to generally as a result of fighting, can cause this. If its one eye chances are it's injury, if its both then it is possibly a bacterial infection. Bad water quality is a common reason enough to be the cause. High nitrAtes/nitrItes, ammonia, metal or plastic poisoning can be the reason too. Unsuitable salinity can also be the cause.
Bacterial infections, injury and water quality are the most common problems. Vitamin A deficiency, tumors and gas embolism are less common reasons. Pop eye can also be caused by gas bubble disease as a result of oxygen super saturation (excess levels) of the water with the gas, nitrogen. Super saturation occurs whenever the pressure of a gas in the water is higher than the pressure of the same gas in the surrounding atmosphere, whereby the difference in gas pressures causes the gas to get pulled too quickly out of the fish's bloodstream, leaving behind gas bubbles. The other symptoms of this are the appearance of bubbles under the fish's skin. It's caused by excess oxygen in the water, particularly from filters that blow air directly from outside to inside the tank, and from pressurized tap water that did not get mixed.
The affected fish should be immediately taken out to be separately treated. It is difficult to specify a specific treatment unless the main cause is definitely known. Large daily water changes should help, if not Epsom salts has been used with good results to draw the fluid out. One tablespoon per 5 gallons of water for at least three days, longer if necessary. Epsom salts isn't really salt (sodium chloride) it is Magnesium Sulfate. If water quality is the problem, a 50 percent water change must be made as soon as possible.
If a new item was added to the aquarium recently, it should be double checked that it is not poisoning the water or letting off chemicals. The quality of the water conditioner that is used should be checked that it has a good opinion by other aquarists. If the water readings are wrong (high nitrAtes etc), a 50 percent water change is recommended again and 15-20 percent water changes 3-5 times per week, until the water readings are correct. Overstocking is a common problem for high water readings. Another common reason would be decaying dead fish and fish food. The tank should be thoroughly searched for any dead fish and precautions must be taken NOT TO OVER FEED, and if the tank is overstocked, steps should be taken in finding some of your fish another good home. If a bacterial infection is the cause we would recommend 'Maracyn', 'Maracyn II', 'eSHa 2000' and 'Anti-internal bacteria' for treatment
We have florence fish is not able to eat anything and not able to pass poop he had swelling on stomach just lying bottom of fish tank.
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S K ROUT -
Problem may be in digestive system; drainage system or heat sensitiveness.
we have red caps ! they suffered with the same problem, i read to give them a fresh shelled pea mashed up daily, this seem to work ,stopped the constipation and in turn cured the swimbladder diesese they had develped
Yesterday one of my Neon Rosy Barbs looked double in size, just massive really in width, mostly in the stomach area.
Today the fish is just laying on the bottom of the tank, it's still alive but barely able to move itself .
This is the second time a fish has done this in the last few weeks. The other one died and I found the other fish eating it.
It's almost like an obstruction inside causing the bloating?
Does this sound like what happened to your fish?
I think you overfeed your fish, cuz I did the same thing sometime ago and they were swimming around with a string of poop on their bottom. So feed the fish less.
Olivia B -
Well looks like your fish has swim bladder look it up do some research hey guess what my fish has it too my only fish :(
" here is some info which I have tried these experiments Please let me know if you try this cos I want to see if this helps my fish"
name: SWIM BLADDER DISEASE
Symptoms: • Erratic Swimming Position
• Loss of equilibrium
• Fish will be unable to maintain buoyancy
• Symptoms of Stress & Disease
Swim Bladder Disease General Description
Swim bladder disease is a multifactorial illness which primarily affects ornamental goldfish which have globoid body shapes, like orandas, ryukins, and fantails. It most often presents as a fish which floats at the surface, or a fish which stays on the bottom and doesn't seem to be able to easily rise. A fish which has normal buoyancy but is listing to one side or the other often does not have swim bladder disease, but may have other diseases.
Swim Bladder Disease Treatments
This is a problem more common in fancy goldfish, and there is no cure for it. Feeding medicated food (see bottom of page), adding salt to the tank, feeding peas, and raising the temperature to 76 degrees may help but only for a short time. Eventually the fish may be unable to eat and will have to be euthanized.
Feed your fish a couple of peas. That's right, peas. Just get some frozen peas, thaw them, and feed them to your fish. A professor of fish medicine at N.C. State College of Veterinary Medicine has done this in several cases with very good results. He thinks that the peas somehow encourage destruction of the impaction. No hard scientific data yet, but it's worth a try.
Fast your fish for a couple of days. Withhold all food for three or four days, and sometimes this alone will break up the impaction and return things to normal. Most fish can go a week to ten days without food and be just fine.
Periodic aspiration of the swim bladder works very well. Basically, you stick a needle in the swim bladder and suck out some of the air. Not something to be entered into lightly, but does work well. This is not a cure, but a successful treatment. The head veterinarian at the Baltimore Aquarium prefers this method.
Swim Bladder Disease Prevention
As always, the golden rule of fish disease is Water Quality. If swim bladder disease does have an infectious cause, your fish will be better able to resist this infection (and others) if your water quality is good. Regular water changes and water testing are a must.
Pre-soak your flake or pelleted food. This will allow expansion to occur prior to the fish eating it, and will lessen the chance of impaction.
Even better, switch to a gel-based food or other food source, i.e. frozen or live food.
There is a chance it may be constipated.
Check the article about Constipation and see if it sounds like your fish.
We have a 4 year-old + Bumble Bee Cichlid with what we can only guess is a tumor growing from his face. It started as a small pink sore a few months ago and is now largely swollen, cracked and bleeding. The bulge is about twice the size of the fish's eye and is located between its left eye and mouth. You can literally see the scales being pushed from his body as it grows in size. I imagine it has to be interfering with his vision and must be very painful, yet he acts normal. Pet stores can only tell us to wait it out. I think we've waited too long. What other options are there?
Hi; my goldfish developed severe fin fraying and some holes in its fins over the weekend. It hasn't had a bad history of disease and it's pretty healthy up until now. It is also acting lazy and doesn't swim much. What is the cause?
Hi one of my fish has got red spots near the left eye, is this a type of sickness? I'm really worried.
I have a sailfin molly that is having a difficult time swimming. He toggles from left to right to swim, when he is not sitting at the bottom of he tank. I don't know what's wrong. Please help.
I have a 125 gallon with frontosa's some of them have developed little pits on their faces. I have treated the tank 2 times for fungus. I had to take one female out of the tank because she had big patches of raw meat around her eyes. Can anyone help me figure out what this is?
My fish jumped out of the tank this morning. Now its body is kind of distorted and its fins are damaged. It is swimming sideways and has bulging, cloudy eyes. It's not eating. How can I help it?
I have some sort of eggs in the corners of my tank. I just set it up three weeks ago, but had the fish. I had two angel fish one died, two catfish looking fish that was called a shark, one died today the other last week, an algae eater and one danio fish. I don't know if one of them laid these eggs or it's something bad growing and killing my fish. Any ideas?